Italy
Blozano, Italy
Tuesday, May 1
Written by: Brian

Ciao Italy, Guten Tag Austria

On our travels North to Austria, our last stop was in the mountain town of Bolzano.  Bolzano is located in the Italian Alps, better know to the Italians as the Dolomite's due to the spire rock structures that crest the horizon. 

From my understanding, in 1918, at the end of World War I the region of Trentino also known in German as the Welschtirol, and the southern part of the primarily German-speaking Tyrol were occupied by the Italian Army and thereafter annexed.  Now that you know a little of the history of Bolzano, there are also a couple other things that it is famous for.

 It is the home of Reinhold Messner, the famous mountaineer, who in 1980 was the first person to ascend Mount Everestalone without supplementary oxygen. This was the first time anyone had been that high without bottled oxygen and Messner proved what most doctors, specialists, and mountaineers thought impossible and it changed mountaineering forever. In 1986 he also became the first to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level, sometimes referred to as Crown of the Himalayas). 

It is also the home of Ötzi the Iceman, now I know most of you are thinking who the heck is Otzi, well let me tell you.
5000 years ago, a 40-45 year old man was walking in the mountains and had just finished his last meal 8 hours ago which consisted of chamois meat, the other of red deer meat. Both were eaten with some grain as well as some roots and fruits. 
His cloths were very sophisticated for this time period.  He was wearing a cloak made of woven grass and a vest, a belt, a pair of leggings, a loincloth and shoes, all made of leather. He also wore a bearskin cap with a leather chin strap. His shoes were waterproof and wide, seemingly designed for walking across the snow; they were constructed using bearskin for the soles, deer hide for top panels, and a netting made of tree bark. Straw grass went around the foot and in the shoe to keep his feet warm.  His belt had a pouch sewn to it that contained mainy useful items: a scraper, drill, flint flake, bone awl, and a dried fungus to be used as tinder.

 
Other items he was carring were a copper axe, a flint knife with an ash handle, a quiver of 14 bone-tipped arrows with flint heads (two arrows were finished, twelve were not), and an unfinished  longbow.

 
So what happened to Otzi, it is theorized that  he was shot with and arrow as there was an arrowhead cut in one shoulder when he died, matching a small tear on his coat. The arrow shaft had been removed, apparently by a companion. He had a deep wound on the base of his thumb that cut down to the bone. An absence of scar tissue indicates that the injury occurred shortly before his death. He also had bruises and cuts on his hands, wrists, and chest. DNA analysis revealed traces of blood from four other people on his gear: one from his knife, two from the same arrowhead, and a fourth from his coat. 
He was wounded in the conflict, and probably died within several minutes due to massive blood loss, as a result of a flint arrowhead severing his left subclavian artery.

 
Because Otzi died in the ice his bodz was almost perfecltly persevered.  He is currenlty resting behind glass in a room that is kept at 21.2 degrees farheight to ensure there is no decay.

 
Now you know about Utzi, and since you made it through that lecture and were patient here is the funny part of our trip to Bolzano. 

 
Susan wanted to go see another museum as well, the Musuem of Natural Science.  It shows how and when the Alps/Dolomites were formed.  I thought not a bad idea, it sounden educational, there was nothing else to do as everything was pretty much closed because it was Sunday.  We enter the Musuem and pay a 5 Euro a piece to and head into the musuem.  Well guess we never thought that there wouldnt be ANY Elnglish in the museum and in a Natural History museum you would have to do a lot of reading or you wouldnt understand what you were seeing.  We made the best of it and laughed along the way, there we some cool pictures but we could not tell you that we learned anything there.
We are now in Salzburg, Austria for the next couple days, then on to Vienna.

 
Susans German is going to have to pull the next two weeks as the only thing I know is Guten Tag (hello), Mach Schnell (hurry up, which I learned in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade) and Lederhosen (which are leather knickers, which if you were wondering, I will not be wearing). I already miss using my Italian, I think I was getting pretty good.
One last thing, we have added a new section to the website named In a Nutshell, it will give you our ideas on the countries we visit.  Check it out and let us know what you think.

 
Auf Wiedersehen (Bye, which I just learned)

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Last Updated ( Wednesday, 02 May 2007 )
 
Venice
Friday, April 27
Written by: Brian


So it was my turn to look for a hotel in Venice.  I did all my research and found us a nice hotel for 70 euros a night.  I even goggled it so I would have the directions from the train station to the hotel.  You know that there is a punch line here and we will get to that in a few seconds....

When we got of the train in Venice, we were greeted by the grand canal.  It is a beautiful looking waterway in the middle of the city, as you look down the canal you see houses and buildings sitting on the waterway. For anyone that does not know Venice is an a kind of Island with no roads in the central city.  It is structured with canals that connect the city to a Gulf of Venice and eventually the Adriatic Sea.  The canals are the main transportation in the city as there are water buses, Gondola's, and Traghetto's (small taxis).  You can attempt to walk through the city but without a detailed map, well lets just say it is an adventure as you are about to find out...

Once we stopped looking at the grand canal we headed of in the direction of our hotel or so we thought.  We get to the area that the hotel is supposed to be in and we see signs with the name of the street that the hotel is on.  I know I wrote it down right as Cannaregio A233 but all the addresses we are seeing are like 900 so we realize that something is not right.  Susan politely suggests that we should ask someone if they have heard of our hotel and with 40 lb packs on our back I believe that her opinion is the right one.

I ask the next two business men that were walking by us and they sure we know that hotel, it is over by the train station about a 10 minute walk from here.  Well needless to say we passed it 8 minutes prior on our walk from the train station to our supposed address.  Well the moral of the story or the lesson learned is that there are not really street names in Venice as there are no streets.  Goggle had given me the area it was in and then in Venice you are supposed to use the addresses to find your way around. 

Venice has been really nice but a little to short.  We have not had a chance to see any museums but we have walked through the city and around the canal. Today we even took a water taxi ride through the grand canal. I have learned what Murano glass is, which is an island where the artists make the glass.  So I have learned a little.  We are off to Bolzano and the mountains tomorrow.

We will get you all some photos of Venice in the next few days.

Ciao

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Florence / Cinque Terre

Date: April 26
Written by: Susan

It's been a while since our last blog. We're sorry for everybody who has been checking in and are sick and tired of our Florence train story. So we've been to a lot of places since the last time we blogged....Florence, Cinque Terre, Milan and Pisa. I'll start with Florence and go from there.

Florence:

We loved Florence. We love Florence so much we could both live here. It's interesting how as soon as you arrive in a new town, you know whether or not you're going to like it. Florence was one of those places. Our first day we went to the Duomo. It was awesome. It was early enough in the morning that there still wasn't a line to climb to the top (highly recommend it). The climb up is interesting as you keep winding around and around the dome and the stairs at the end curve around the dome. Not a place you would want to be on a hot day with someones butt in your face. But we were lucky and didn't get any foreign butt's in our face. The view at the top is spectacular and gave us such a great view of Florence. It's a beautiful city with hills all around it. We also picked up a great book (on recommendation from one of our friend's) called Brunelleschi's Dome by Ross King. It tells the story about the building of the dome. It is a fascinating read and made us appreciate the architecture and construction of the dome even more.

On another recommendation, we tried to get reservations to the Accademia (where the statue of David is) and the Uffizi (some great works by Michelangelo, Raphael and Leonardo were house). We were successful on reserving a spot for the Accademia but not the Uffizi. So we thought, no problem...we'll just get to the Uffizi at 8am when it opens, be there first in line and BEAT everybody. Then we'll get in right away and get it out of our way. Brilliant plan we say to ourselves and pat ourselves on the back for being such 'smart' tourists! ahhhh...not so easy though.....since we have the Lonely Planet guide and so do the other ten thousand tourists in Florence, there was only about 5 thousand people in line. Not really...but it might was well be since we ended having to wait 3 hours to get into the freaking museum. The line wasn't actually that long (which is deceiving), they only let a certain number of people into the museum at a time. So after 2 hours, you start playing the whole game of "well, we're almost there", "We've stood in line for already 2 hours, what's another 2?", "It is THE museum in Florence to go see", and a load of other crap you say to yourselves to make yourselves feel better about being dumb enough to have stood in the line for the first 2 hours. And guess what to top it all off? It's not worth standing in line for 3 hours for! It's worth a one hour line - but really just make a reservation and go eat some gelato. That's a much better day.

We did love the statue of David though and thought that was really cool. We didn't have to stand in line there (we had the coveted reservation) plus the guard didn't really seem to care as much about people going in as at the Uffizi. It was amazing to imagine that someone actually carved this huge statue out of stone. Brian and I tried to just draw the hand and it looks like a drunk jelly fish.

We would recommend Florence to anybody making a trip to Italy and it is definitely worth at least 4 or 5 days. It's a city with so much to discover with so much history.....we'll definitely be back.

CINQUE TERRE

After Florence we went to this region called the Cinque Terre (5 lands) on the coast of the Ligurian Sea (basically NW Italy coast just south of Genoa). The 5 towns are little fishing towns where motorized vehicles aren't allowed which is great. You take a train from town to town. We stayed in the town of Manarola which was just wonderful. Our apartment had a few overlooking the vineyards and the water. Unfortunately, I got sick the 2nd day we were there with some sort of nasty sinus infection thing. So pretty much we did nothing for the next 5 days and I barely left the apartment. I got really good at Tetris though and hold the record. A bummer since there was some great hiking in the area around the vineyards. Brian did do a hike on his own one day and loved it.

Life is pretty much lazy and slow in these parts which was nice. So there wasn't much to do except read and hang out. So I guess it was a good place to be sick. Great pesto and seafood pasta! Our favorite foods was the spaghetti alle vongole (with clams) and the baked Seabass. We went to the same restaurant 5 times.

From the Cinque Terre we took day trips to Pisa and Milan. Pisa is the obligatory stop on any backpacker's trip. It's not like you really care if you go there, but then you think "well, we're so close, we should just go there". Then you go there and realize it was actually kind of a waste of time. Good thing we had time to waste. I guess it was cool. Cool only for a like an hour though. That's about it. Then it became not so cool and we went to find lunch.

We went to Milan on Tuesday for a change. Also because Brian bought these Grammicci pants that haven't really lasted at all and he had to get a new pair of pants. So it's our one and only pilgrimage we'll be able to make to a Patagonia. Yeah, we're junkies. So we got him a new pair of pants there and then went out for Sushi. Yes, I was dying for sushi and so excited to be in a big city where I could get some. Walked around Milan for the day. Went to see the Duomo there which is very spectacular (although not our favorite). Linkin Park happend to be filming something by the Duomo so there were all these fans outside with signs and everything. The funniest part was hearing all the Italians with their accents say Linkin Park. They say it like "Leekeeeeeen Park!". Over and over again.

Anyways, we are now off to Venice for 2 nights and then I think we are going to leave Italy for Salzburg and Vienna, Austria. Until then............

 

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Last Updated ( Thursday, 26 April 2007 )
 
Florence

Monday, April 16
written by: Brian

Well, we made it to Florence and have spent the entire day walking through the beautiful city but that is not where this story begins.  The adventure was actually getting to Florence or Firenze as the Italians call it.

Let us begin this tale at 8:00 am Sunday morning as we are hoofing it up a mile long hill, 40lb packs and all, to the bus stop on our way to Sorrento to catch the train. We could have taken the little local bus that we bought tickets for but got off because he stopped and everyone got off.  We made it up the hill, set our packs down and turned around and there was the little city bus guy driving past us.  We had yet to know how our day would unfold. I guess at least we beat him up the hill.

As we are sitting there waiting for the bus this middle aged/older couple walks up the hill and sits next to us and is speaking English.  I look at the man's clothing and he is wearing a Columbia jacket with a fleece underneath the coat.  As I was curious about his attire, I thought I might as well ask where they were from, and wouldn't you know they live in Seattle, Wa (Shoreline for you Seattlites).  So that was a pleasant surprise half way across the world.

As the day continues we make it to Sorrento and take the train into Naples for our 12:24 train to Florence/Firenze.  We obviously had to eat before we got on the train and we were tired of the pizza so we broke down and had Mc Donald's cheese burgers.  Now for those of you who have traveled, you know how great those burgers can taste

Let's get on with the story, we are on the train.  The trains that we have been on have 6 seats, 3 across from each other, per cabin.  There are about 6 cabins per car.  Well we have to other guys in our car, (one older guy and one college kid -who don't speak any English). They have the window seats, which we forgot to ask for window seats as well as a couple other things which we will get into later. We tried speaking to the older guy and he showed us where he lived which was a 10 hour train trip for him. He understood we were going to Florence/Firenze, but other then that we could not understand anything else. 

He then got into an argument with the conductor which lasted 10 minutes about his ticket which ended with the conductor laughing and walking away and our old guy not very pleased.  It looked like he told the college kid all about it over the next hour, poor kid just kept looking at him and nodding his head. The train ride from Naples to Florence-Firenze is about a 5-6 hour trip that goes through Rome.  One of the most important features that we have found is making sure that you ask for a 1st class type ticket where they give you a seat assignment, which we did do.  We make it to Rome and as we continue onto our destination the older guy gets up and leaves the cabin but does not return for 3 hours.  We had no idea where he was at but as we got closer to the Florence people started boarding the train to the point where people were standing outside our cabin.  We had three empty seats with the guy not there and our day packs were sitting in the other two seats. People eventually asked if they could sit in our car and not speaking much Italian we couldn't really explain the situation.  Needless to say we now had a cabin full of people but we were not worried as we knew we would be in Florence/Firenze in 30 mins.
 
Here is where the story gets good...  30 mins comes and goes and we think our train is maybe running late as we have not heard or seen the station for Florence/Firenze Santa Maria Novella.  Just then we get to the next stop and the train leaves and people come into our cabin and say we are sitting in their seat. Susan and I look at each other and think OK no big deal.  Then around the corner comes the old guy and he looks at us, with sunglasses on, and you can see his eyes wide open saying Firenze! Firenze! and pointing back the way we came.  He looks at us trying to explain that we missed our stop a couple exits ago.  We got all that through his Italian and hand gestures.  He helped us put our packs on and took us to the train door and explained with hand language and Italian (which we didn't understand) how to get back to the other train platform to catch the train back to Florence.  It is amazing the communication that was accomplished over the next 10 mins.  We pretty much understood everything he said, including the Italian line that he asked is Susan was from China and he liked to eat Chinese food. 

We got off the train, followed our old wise man's instructions and caught the next train to the Florence Train Station.  I know you are all thinking, how the heck did you miss your stop....  Great question, the answer was we didn't, the train never stopped at the station in Florence/Firenze that we needed.  It does make a stop but it is at a suburb train stop and you would never know unless someone told you.  Our error was we asked for a train ticket to Florence/Firenze and the train guy said what time and we told him we wanted the 12:24 train.  Next time we will pay more attention as to where that train stops. So we were only 2 hours late getting into Florence.

Everything else is well, we are staying 3 nights in Florence to see the museums including the statue of David. Then we are off to Cinque Terre for a week.

Ciao!

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Last Updated ( Monday, 16 April 2007 )
 
Amalfi Coast/Pompei

Date: Thursday April 12
Written by: Susan

"Are you Chinese or Italian?"

I bet you're thinking that it was a question someone was asking me while we rode the train from Naples to Salerno huh? I would seem to be the obvious choice, but apparently Brian is looking a little Chinese these days...or Italian if you factor in the olive skin and dark hair. hmmmm...It was actually quite funny and confusing. We met this really nice guy by the name of Donato who is orginally from Nigeria but came to Italy to study theology. When he first asked Brian the question there was as you can imagine a lot of confusion. We thought maybe we didn't understand his question? Was he really talking to me? Maybe he didn't know English really well? Maybe it was some weird Italian words that just sounded like English? So we fumbled a bit with the question and then realized...no, he actually speaks perfect English, he just genuinely thought Brian was Chinese or Italian. So we told him we were from the States and had a really nice, eye-opening conversation with him for our hour train ride down to Salerno. Apparently, he can't get a job in Italy because basically Italians are racist against any country that is poorer than them. Pretty much includes any country besides the US, Canada, Great Britain and the EU. Even though he is more qualified than most people that teach in a university. So instead he's headed to California! Land of Hollywood dreams, big boobs, and botox. He's never been there before and we didn't want to ruin the surprise.

Anyways, enough about our train ride. We made it to a small town named Positano that we are staying in on the Amalfi Coast. The entire Amalfi Coast is beautiful with this road that lingers on the edge of the cliff. You take a bus the entire length of the coast (about a 2-3 hour ride) around these winding roads that can get you sick really quick. Positano is a very cute town with homes that cling to the side of the mountain where many times it looks like you can just look over the edge of where ever you are walking and jump into the ocean. It's a bit resorty and expensive for us so we've bought a lot of groceries and have had a great time eating on our terrace that looks out to the ocean and having some great wine from the Tuscany region, cheese, and sausage.

Yesterday, we walked down these stairs that puts Suzanne Sommer's thigh master to shame. The stairs kick your a**. Up and down. We went down to the beach (as that is almost always easier than up) and walked around this little trail until we came to the main beach in town. There happened to be a boat leaving for Sorrento so we decided to hop on that and head over there. It would give us a great view of the coastline as well as a change in mode of transportation. We loved Sorrento. It was quiet compared to the hustle and bustle of Rome, yet there was enough interesting markets and things to look at as we meandered around and ate gelato.

Today we went to Pompei. We didn't really read up on how to get there. All we knew was to take the bus from Positano to Sorrento and then the Cirumvesuviana train to Pompei. Brian and I were sitting on the bus enjoying our Italian lesson when all of a sudden all the tourists on the bus got off at this stop. I guess it's always a good hint that if you are headed to a tourist destination and all the tourist get off the bus, it must mean that we should get off the bus too (especially if all the tourist are wearing tevas with socks, safari hats, and have a camera around their neck). So we got off. Of course, when we asked these ladies if this was the train station to Pompei they said they didn't know. They just got off the bus because everybody else did. GREAT! Now we're probably all following one dummy who got off at the wrong stop. So we went into the train station and asked the train ticket guy if this was the train to Pompei. Luckily it was the right train stop and we purchased our tickets.

20 minutes later, we're at Pompei. The train literally stops right in front of the ruins. We bought tickets and an audio tour and headed out. To be honest, Brian and I were a bit disappointed in Pompei. Maybe we should have splurged for the guided tour but that would have set us back a 100 euro. After about a half hour of thinking it was cool, it just became a bunch of bricks piled together in little rooms. It's almost like when you go to a movie theater and see this awesome preview for a movie and then you go see the movie and realized all the good parts were in the preview. A couple of cool things we saw were the plaster bodies that they found, the frescoes, and the brothel with some x-rated frescoes painted on the walls in case you didn't know you were doing. I'm happy to report people were still getting it on and not working too hard back in 62AD.

After Pompei since we still had most of the afternoon ahead of us we decided we should take the train into Naples since it is apparently the birthplace of pizza and known to have fantastic pizza. I know now why people told us to stay out of Naples. The train station is a mess. Getting out of the train station is a mess. Crossing the street is a mess. Just plain dirty with trash everywhere, cars that run red lights, and vendors selling you all sorts of goodies. We decided to go to this pizza place that Lonely Planet recommended. The good? they may great recommendations. The bad? They sell millions of copies of books. Which means we weren't the only ones with the same idea. it was worth it though. We each got a whole pizza at this place called Da Michele for 3,50 euro. CHEAP and delicous. After that we decided to head back to Sorrento. We didn't need to buy any crap since we're carrying enough books to form our own bookmobile at this point.

Now we are in Sorrento waiting for our bus ride back to Positano and found a cheap internet cafe. We have 2 more days in Positano. We'll spend on on the Island of Capri and probably just hang out the other day. On Sunday we head to Florence for 2 nights and then to Cinque Terre for 5 nights. We'll be staying in the town of Manarolo.

Ciao for now!

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Last Updated ( Thursday, 12 April 2007 )
 
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