Democratic Republic of the Congo
Leaving the DRC

September 28, 2007

Written by: Brian

 

Current Location: 37,000 miles up in the air above the DRC heading to Addis Ababa

 

 

The Last Three Hours

 

We have such great stories to tell about our three weeks in the DRC.  We met some great people and experienced a wonderful culture.  As funny as it might sound, I will miss the DRC……from the people, the pagne, and the friends we made.  You really have a hard time understanding a place until you visit it and thus is the case with the DRC.  What I will not miss is our last two hours in the airport.

 

We started our morning off with a smoothie that Mara (Mike and Mara were our friends that we stayed with) made for us.  We downloaded email and updated all our ipods with new music.  We discussed the crises in Burma with the monks while watching CNN for our morning news update.  Mara took some time to explain the process at the airport to us.  Process, what process?  There is a process and boy, is it a process.  An expeditor agent (a guy at the airport) is paid to help you get through the check in, the customs check, the baggage check and any random person that may ask you to see your passport check.  Sounds funny I know but at least we were covering the worst-case scenarios in case anything went wrong while we were there. 

 

Our expeditor, Michel (the name Michael in the states), was the same guy who helped us upon arrival with getting our bags and getting us to the driver.  The process starts with getting your bags checked by a person to ensure there is nothing there that shouldn’t be.  Basically it’s the first baggage check.  Michel then goes to get our passports looked at in the Ethiopia Airlines line. You need like a pre-booking check to make sure your visa is good.  We then have our bags manually checked by Ethiopian airlines.  Then we bring our bags to the counter and Michelle talks to the agent about getting us our boarding passes.  Sounds easy so far right???????

 

This is where it starts to get interesting because our bags are overweight. Susan did too much shopping in the Congo and we already had our two backpacks that weigh 15 kilos and 19 kilos plus a suitcase that weighs 20 kilo and then a duffle bag that weight 16 kilos for a grand total of 70 kilos. We have in the suitcase shirts and skirts that we had custom tailored, Congo masks, and wall hangings called Kuba cloth.  In the duffle bag we have our hiking boots, sleeping bags, and of course books. So I guess it was not all Susan’s fault J.  Well the lady (we will call her “Bertha”) at the counter is saying we can only bring on 20 kilos apiece so we are 30 kilos over.  Not good.  Michel tries to negotiate with the lady but she is not budging at all, the cost for being over weight by that much is about $300 US dollars.  So we come up with the idea to carry our backpacks on and put them in the overhead compartment.  The lady says ok finally and we tip her $10.00 for letting us off.  We at least got rid of two bags.

 

As we are waiting at the next check point the guy that loaded our luggage (we will call him “George) comes over to us asking for a tip for loading the bags. Basically putting them on the conveyor belt to go out to the tarmac. I try to tell him we don’t have any money left and that we are sorry.  Doesn’t work and “George” is mad at us (more on “George” later).

 

Next you get your passport checked again with your boarding pass and get an OK stamp put on it before you can exit the check in area. Michel then shuffles us off to immigration where they stamp our visas for exit and we are moved over to one wooden door that only one person at a time can enter through.  After Susan gets her passport stamped for exiting the customs guy behind the glass asks Susan for a coke. “A coke?” Susan responds a bit confused and then smiles and shakes her head no. “Did he just ask you for a Coke?” I ask. I guess they accept all forms of currency when it comes to bribes including Cokes. Susan then goes through the security check with no problems and I am allowed in.  We are now in the waiting room of the terminal and I put my two backpacks on the belt to send them through the x-ray machine, finally the last baggage check and we are home free!!!  I go to retrieve my bags and there is a problem, they see something at the bottom of my big backpack and they want me to unpack it all.

 

Come to find out we left our pocket knife in the one of our little zipper bags, not thinking we were going to bring our packs on the plane with us.  The guard confiscates our Leathermen and says that it can’t go on the plane.  Oh, by the way this is all going on in French.  I get one of the supervisors to say that we can put it in our luggage, so he takes me back out through customs and over to Ethiopian airlines and explains the problem.  Ethiopian says no problem we will get your bag and you can put it in so “George” comes over and says he will go get it.  Well now I have to give “George” some money for helping us out so I give him my last $4. 

 

We walk through some doors and go out the back to the tarmac where they are loading our luggage.  George recognizes out duffle bag and grabs and rouses the anger of the baggage handlers, there is a shouting match that ends with “George” walking away with our bag and the baggage handlers asking me to buy them a Coke, to which I reply I have no money.  I thank “George” and head back through the customs check, the wooden door and the last x-ray check.  Whew made it through all that.  I find Susan sitting on some chairs waiting for me and I head over to let her know all is good.

 

She says to me “We have another problem. They gave us someone else’s boarding pass with the name of Sucawitz.” I forgot to tell you that the WHOLE check in process is manual, NO computers for tickets, seat assignments, or baggage tags.  We are now missing our sticker for our baggage and Susan’s boarding pass.  I make another trip back out through the wooden door, past the customs check and over to Ethiopian Airlines and let them know what happened.  Again they don’t speak English so I try to convey the problem the best I can.  “Bertha” the lady from Ethiopian Airlines that checked us in is helping me.  We walk back through customs, through the wooden door (where the customs guys says “you again”, we laugh and he lets me through), and past the x-ray machine. 

 

“Bertha” thinks that if we go and talk to the 5 Caucasian people in the terminal that one of them has to be Sucawitz and we can then switch our boarding passes.  To no avail we can not find our friend Sucawitz so “Bertha” asks me to follow her back out through the wooden door, past customs and out to the Ethiopian Airlines counter. The answer to this problem….. cross off Sucawitz’s name and write in Thai.  Bam we’re done.  I thank everyone for their help and head back through customs, (I smile, the guard laughs), back through the wooden door, through the metal detector (that goes off on me, I say screw it, by this time they all know me) and back into the terminal waiting area. 

 

We have been at the airport for an hour and a half and I am tired.  We wait for the arrival of our plane and notice our boarding passes do not have seat assignments, of course they don’t it is first come first serve seating, kind of like Southwest airlines.  Our plane arrives and the cattle heard moves out and heads to the plane.  We get three seats to share and start to reminisce about all the great things that happened and all that we learned in the DRC.  We will not let the airport experience taint the great experience we had but it sure was funny.

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6 Month Review

 

Favorites on our trip

 

 

Susan

Brian

Favorite city to live in

Paris

Paris

Favorite Food

Spaghetti Vongole in Cinque Terre

Bread, cheese, wine in Paris

Bread, cheese, wine in Paris

Pizza from Rome

Best book read so far

Three Cups of Tea

Three Cups of Tea

Favorite Drink

Sugar cane juice in Cairo

Turkish tea

Favorite people

Tanzanians, French

Turks

Favorite museum

Louvre, Paris

Louvre, Paris

Favorite historical site

Trevi Fountain in Rome

Abu Simbel, Egypt

Colosseum in Rome

Pyramids in Egypt

Favorite snack/sweets

Macaroons in Paris

Macaroons in Paris

Most missed thing from home

Barnes and Noble

Xbox 360

Most prized purchase

Big wooden giraffe from Tanzania

Last judgement Papyrus in Egypt

Favorite natural wonder

Cappadocia Fairy Chimneys

Nile River

Best public transportation

Vienna #1

Paris #2

Weirdest thing eaten

Pigeon in Egypt

Cow balls in Egypt

Favorite beach

Butterfly Valley on the Turkish Mediterranean coast

Croatia

Best experience

Floating down the Nile River

Hot air ballooning over Cappadocia

Biggest vice

Drinking Coke everyday

Wearing dirty clothes

Most important thing in a hotel room

Hot water

Hot water

Favorite city/country to tour

Egypt

Italy

Worst hotel experience

Salt water shower in Dahab, Egypt

Place we stayed in Budapest

Favorite fruit

Watermelon in Turkey

Mango juice in Egypt

Favorite animal

Warthogs, giraffes

Elephants

Favorite Language

Swahili, French

Arabic, French

 

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Food in the Congo

Date: September 25

Written by: Susan

Current Location: Kinshasa, DRC

 

FOOD IN THE CONGO

 

Food in the Congo has been a surprising culinary adventure. We weren’t sure quite what to expect in this department but was surprised at the variety of food options available. Unlike some European countries that are more culturally focused, the Congo had the greatest variety of international cuisine we’d seen since Paris.

 

To preface, food in the Congo is VERY expensive. It’s on par with the major cities in the world and I would even have to say more expensive as there is limited access to mid-ranged priced food. Therefore you’re stuck with either nice restaurants and full course meals or the grocery store.

 

The Grocery Store


The grocery store itself is for the most part very well stocked with foreign items. You can find everything from imported cheese such as Gouda and Camembert (left over from the Belgium colonial days) to Chinese noodles and 5 different varieties of canned litchis. There doesn’t really seem to be any rhyme or reason though to what’s in stock at what grocery store. At one corner grocery store you might find several shelves of 5 different kinds of mayonnaise yet no mustard. At a larger grocery store you might find only 2 brands of mayonnaise and 5 brands of mustard. I’m not sure if this is really due to the market demand of the product or the whim of the buyer. Perhaps they just got a discounted deal for cases of mayo?

 

Grocery store prices are exorbitant for what you get. Especially in the produce department and internationally recognized brand items. On our first night in the DRC, we stopped in at a grocery store to buy a few staple items. Juice, yogurt, some cheese. I picked up a quart of Tropicana grapefruit juice. When I got to the register, it rang up as $15. Needless to say, we put that back. A small carton of yogurt costs $2 per container. Although I must say it is incredibly creamy and delicious and truly worth the hefty price tag. Cheese is relatively affordable since prices resemble those of a Whole Foods or specialty store in the States. Cereal is another department that finds itself with lucrative margins. Brian misread the code on a box and forgot to multiply it by 2 to find out its price. It ended up being a $12 box of Kellogg’s bran flakes.

 

The produce department is a bit of a challenge for those looking for variety and freshness. Some grocery stores do it better than others. One grocery store had great looking and a relatively good selection of produce. Other grocery stores look like Whole Foods meets your local corner grocery. There are some things that look like they have a lot of potential whereas the bin next to it may look like it’s got a vegetable that takes you ten minutes of careful examining to decipher. That’s the tough part. Not all stores may have what you’re looking for. There is no set repertoire for the produce department and I’m guessing it varies based on what was able to make it into the country pass the yellow fever inspectors.

 

We actually found fresh, bright green lettuce being grown in local farm co-ops on our way out to see the Bonobo monkeys, which is about 45 minutes outside of Kinshasa. We were wondering how come these greens never seemed to make it to the market. The reason appeared to be due to the lack of infrastructure in the roads and any sort of distribution scheme. Instead, the Bonobos were the lucky recipients of the fresh lettuce and other greens grown near the farm.

 

Foreign produce items that do make it into the country reflect the many airline tickets and custom agents bribed to get them here. We were so excited about seeing fresh plump plums that we dared to even look at the price. $10 per pound. Small strawberries that would tasted delicious in a fruit smoothie would set you back $8 a pound. The only produce we could manage to afford was the apples and oranges, which were still $3 a pound. So needless to say our fruit and veggie consumption while here in the Congo has been rather limited.

 

What has not been limited though is the number of excellent restaurants we have been able to dine at. We didn’t realize that after 3 weeks our clothes might be a little snugger than usual.

 

One of my favorite meals here is the capitaine fish (aka Nile perch). It is some of the most tender, flaky, white fish I’ve ever eaten. One of the most fantastic ways that we have eaten the fish was bbq’d shish kabob style. I really had never put chunks of fish on a skewer before and tried to grill it. It just seemed like disaster waiting to happen. On the contrary, the fish was perfectly cooked and seasoned and just melted in my mouth. It’s hard to ruin capitaine though so any way that we’ve had it has been excellent, especially when swimming in buerre blanc sauce.

 

Another great meal we had was at this chicken place. For the longest time it was just known to us as the chicken place. When we met up with Mike’s co-workers in Nairobi, all they talked about was the chicken place. We weren’t even sure if it even had a name. Finally, 2 weeks after arriving, we got to go to the chicken place. It does actually have a name too, Chez Mama Colonel. It used to be this little hole in the wall but apparently mama was making enough chicken business to open up a very nice quaint dining establishment located in the middle of a very busy neighborhood of Kinshasa.

 

The great thing about going to a chicken restaurant is that it’s not hard to order. Grilled BBQ chicken. I guess you can decide how many sides of plantains and fries you want but you’re pretty much there to eat tons of chicken. It did not disappoint. We had ordered 5 whole chickens for 7 of us. The chicken was some of the best chicken we’d ever eaten. Piping hot off the grill and the crunchy skin seasoned to perfection. Everybody just dug in, elbows and all. There’s nothing civilized about this eating experience. We just dipped chunks of chicken into a sauce that our friends had concocted when they first moved here. Mayonnaise and pili pili (which is a super hot chili pepper). The stuff is addicting and adds a few extra calories to the meal. Maybe that’s why we’re gaining weight? We managed to eat most of the chicken and washed it all down with some nice local beer called Tembo, which is similar to an amber beer.

 

The other 2 popular beers they have here in Congo are called Primus and Skol. Primus is similar to a Miller light whereas Skol could be compared to Old Style or Old English. People have their allegiances. Either you’re a Primus drinker or a Skol drinker. I suppose it’s like preferring Budweiser or Miller.  Skol and Primus pretty much have the market on beer and everything (buildings and walls) that could possibly be painted in either brand’s logo pretty much is. They’ve infiltrated fine dining restaurants where you’ll see the waiters decked out in Primus or Skol shirts. The National Police building is even painted in Primus colors with the primus logo all over the building. I guess everything can be bought for a price. Perhaps the policeman even get free cases of beer delivered to their precinct.

 

The other finger licking, get down and dirty meal we’ve had here are the cosas (shrimp). Again, it was always referred to as the cosa place with no real reference to the actual restaurant name. I’m not even sure what it is. Like the chicken place, you come here specifically for the shrimp. There is no need to even look at the menu. Everybody was having Cosa Royale at $27 a person.

 

The cosas came out steaming hot coated with seasoning and dripping in butter. Huge, succulent shrimp which to me looked bigger than anything I’d ever seen. They were at least the size of tiger shrimp. The were so hot that it was hard to pick them up at first but then we were able to get down to business after a few minutes. First you have to suck the seasoning off the shell. Then you break of the head and discard that in a bowl. After that you peel the shell off the shrimp so all you’re left with is a big piece of shrimp. You dip it in butter and pop it in your mouth. Delicious. And I suppose it better be for $27.

 

So although the Congo may have its issues politically, they do know how to serve up some mean grub. We’ll be leaving the Congo with not only a better understanding of Microfinance and the rich history of the Congo, but also very full satisfied bellies. 

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DRC Intro

Saturday, September 26, 2007

Written by: Brian 

 

Current Location: Matadi, Kinshasa

 

 

The Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC):

 

It is time for a history lesson, so get your cup of coffee, sit back and enjoy.  The DRC, formerly the Belgium Congo and then Zaire, gained its independence from Belgium in 1960 and it is the third largest country in Africa.  The population is around fifty-six million people and the official language is French.  The Congo River which runs through the DRC is the second largest river in Africa and is also has the second largest flow of water in the world behind the Amazon and slightly ahead of the Mississippi.  It is also famous for the Gorillas in the Eastern part of the country and a movie was even done about them, “Gorillas in the Mist.”

 

So we boarded our flight from Addis Ababa, Ethiopia to the DRC not knowing what to expect upon arrival.  Our friends, Mike and Mara, informed us that we should expect the worst as we were entering the “CONGO”.  The flight arrived early in the DRC and we off loaded onto the tarmac and preceded to the “dreaded” customs line, where we were hoping we would not be harassed.  With our luck though, the process was all very smooth and well-organized.  Our driver (or who we thought was our driver) found us right away and we started to wait for our luggage. 

 

This is where things got interesting because it was pretty chaotic and there are all kinds of men asking for your baggage tickets so they can assist you with your bags.  Well we had a guy trying to find our bags, our driver/contact assisting us and we didn’t know what to do.  Finally, our bags came around about an hour after our arrival.  As we walked out of the airport we had our driver/contact and this guy with one of our bags, and Susan and I carrying our backpacks.  As you exit there is a massive group of people that are trying to get in to assist people with their bags and the police are trying to keep them out.  Every once in a while a few get in. It was pretty hectic. 

 

Anyway we make it out and two more men greet us and now we are overwhelmed, who are these two guys?  Why do we have 4 people with us?  Then the first guy leans over to me and tells me he is Mr. Mike’s driver so I think well who is this other guy then?  Come to find out he was our airport contact to ensure we didn’t have any problems while in the airport because the driver cannot get in.  The luggage guy hands our bag to our driver and another guy and he leaves and heads back into the airport.  We make our way over to our Toyota truck that is waiting for us and I try to tip the other guy carrying our bag. Come to find out he is a loan officer for FINCA, the company we came to study. Oops.  He did get a good laugh out of it though.

 

That was our first two hours in the country.

 

 

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Democratic Republic of the Congo

The DRC and what we are doing here.

written by: Susan

We thought we would give everybody a brief summary on Microfinance (also called Microcredit or Village Banking) so people would have a better understanding of what we are doing in the DRC.

 

Microcredit was created as a way for people (primarily women) in poverty to obtain small business loans in order to generate income for their families. It is mostly aimed at women because research has shown that women are more likely to put food on the table and send their children to school with money earned. One of its founders, Muhammad Yunus, walked around a village near his university in Dhaka, Bangladesh trying to understand why people were so impoverished. What he found was that they simply needed a small loan (sometimes as little as $20) to start a business. Unfortunately, in those conditions, the only type of loan available was from loans sharks that charged so much interest that they would never be able to repay the loan and interest back. Hence, microcredit was born as a way to give small loans to women at a reasonable interest rate.

 

FINCA is the Microcredit company that Mike works for that is based out of Washington DC. He is the director of FINCA for the DRC. FINCA is considered a non-governmental organization (NGO) but in some areas where they've had incredible growth, they are slowly emerging from being an NGO into a full-fledged bank. This is what is happening in the Congo.

 

HOW IT WORKS:

 

Women in a village who are interested in a loan get together to form their own group. When a group is formed (usually around 20-40 women), they are allowed to apply for a loan collectively. The idea behind forming a group was so that they would all be responsible for the entire loan amount. This would ensure that if one person defaulted on the loan, there would be others to "help" out. This helps mitigates the risk for the bank and creates support groups for the women. 

 

The businesses are typically small, roadside businesses that sell everything from just oranges and tomatoes to a full-fledged market. There are also businesses that sell shoes, cloth, maize flour (corn), pharmacy, and many others. 

 

The women get together each week and meet with a FINCA loan officer. They bring with them their pre-determined weekly repayment amount including a small amount of interest (5% flat) and savings. The amount is entered into a little book (similar to a check register) and the entire repayment amount of the group is logged. 

 

This is just a brief summary and is much more intricate than what I explained. If you would like more information, a great book to read is Banker to the Poor, by Muhammad Yunus. A fantastic, easy to read book on his journey through microfinance.

 

WHAT WE ARE DOING:

 

We have spent the last week just reading more on microfinance and trying to understand how it works here in the DRC. This week we had the chance to visit a few village bank meetings that are held out in the communities that the women reside in. Typically, it is at the home of one of the village bankers. 

 

The women are so wonderful and welcomed us with open arms. It is great to see these women be given an opportunity they might not otherwise have in order to create their own businesses. It is very exciting to watch these women take initiative and really want to make a better life for themselves and their family. We heard some great stories including one woman who had nothing and started selling pieces of lumber. She now has a profitable business and has over $700 in savings. An incredible amount considering their level of poverty here. 

 

We hope this gives you a small idea of what microfinance is. Please email us with any questions or you can check out the FINCA sit at www.villagebanking.org. 

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Last Updated ( Friday, 21 September 2007 )
 
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