Croatia
Sailing the Croatian Islands
Date - June 20th

Written by - Susan

Current Location - Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina. Tomorrow we are headed on a 8 hour bus ride to Belgrade, Serbia and then an overnight train to Sofia, Bulgaria and then another train to Greece and hopefully after 48 hours of traveling we will be in Greece.
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There are two types of people in this world. Those who look at want ads and wonder what would happen if they actually answered the ad and those who actually do. We usually fall into the first category, but serendipity somehow had us choose the latter. It all started with our usual visit to the local city information office to get our free city map. As Brian was doing due diligence talking to the information people, I was checking out all the signs posted on the community board. One jumped out at me. SAILING it said in nice bubble letters. It sounded very intriguing especially since we were in a place with over 1200 islands.  So we took the little slip attached with the email address on it. Although we didn't really seriously think that there was any chance we would actually go sailing, we thought what the heck, might as well email the 30-something couple from New Zealand who were looking for a few couples to share the cost of renting a 40ft sailboat for 4 days. It sounded nice and we were doing a little wishful thinking.

We ended up meeting up with the couple, Chris and Autumn for coffee in the old town of Dubrovnik. I must say that back at home, it would seem a bit bazaar to answer a handwritten ad posted in an information center and then meet up for coffee with them the next day, but when traveling it seems perfectly normal.  We had a great time and learned a great deal about the America's cup (the reason Chris and Autumn were in Europe). They had a 2-week break from the action and decided to head over to Croatia. At coffee they told us that they had also met another Australian couple that would also be interested in sharing the costs and we were all to meet and grab gelato at this place where there's this Croatian guy with a perfect Australian accent that serves gelato. It kinds of throws you off guard when you hear a Croatian say G'day mate! Regardless of whether we were actually going to go sailing, the idea of gelato on a 90 degree day was very appealing.

Brian and I talked about whether we would go if we liked the boat, but really were we kidding ourselves? How can you not like a 40 foot sailboat (yacht as New Zealanders call it) with your own cabin. Let's see....sailing around turquoise blue water, being able to jump into the water any time we wanted, eating good food, drinking some beers..............you would have to be dumber than a rock not to jump at the opportunity.....although there are times when we have said things that would be categorized under the dumber than a rock category. So of course the next day when we show up at the marina and take a look at the boat it was definitely a yes from both us and the Australian couple, Luke and Madelaine.

Neither Brian, Luke, Madelaine, nor I had ever been sailing before. So Chris was being really brave taking 4 newbies out into the water. We stocked up on groceries at the local supermarket near the marina and headed out in the late morning.  This is pretty much how the 4 days went.

- Wake up, swim, eat breakfast, sail, lay in sun, swim, snorkel, lay in sun, drink beer, eat lunch, swim, lay in sun, sail, drink beer, lay in sun, eat dinner, swim, drink. one time we even made the effort and stopped for gelato.

I know this sounds pretty lame and I am pretty sure no one is feeling a bit sorry for us at this point, but we were actually kind of tired by the end of the day. All that beer and sun makes for some pretty lazy people.

We did actually experience some other cool highlights.....

1. Chris taught us the basic of sailing including letting us help with pulling up the sails and moving them around according to the wind (which we only really got on the second day of sailing).  Sailing on the second day was just an incredible experience. I even got to steer the boat for a bit which is a bit unnerving since moving the steering wheel only an inch seems to pitch the boat even further on its side. Although there was never any danger of it actually falling on its side when its tipped at a 45 degree angle it sure feels like its about to fall over. Sailing is definitely an art.

2. There is just nothing like jumping into the warm Adriatic Sea when its scorching hot outside and the water is a cool blue. The water is so clear that many times we could see the bottom which was a good 30 feet. There was snorkeling gear onboard so we were also able to snorkel around in different coves. There was tons of tiny little fish as well as sea urchins, sea cucumbers, and lovely old beer cans laying around. We had also bought these cheap floaty rafts at the grocery store so we just laid around on those too.

3. Seeing dolphins. I had never seen dolphins - except of course at SeaWorld - so it was kind of cool to see them swimming in the wild. One time we saw about 7 or 8 of them and Chris decided to kill the engine on the sailboat, grab some snorkel gear and jump into the water to try to swim with them. Brian, Madelaine, and I were not far behind. Although they were not that interested in playing that time, it was definitely fun to jump in and try to swim with them. Brian did freak me out a bit though by telling me that wherever dolphins are, sharks are also around. That's how nice Brian is sometimes. haha! Later on though we did see more dolphins and this time they did want to play and swam right along side our boat for a while. So that was really fun to peer over the front of the sail boat and see them right below us.

4. The last time we anchored before having to bring the boat back to the Marina we were trying to figure out what to do with our little floaty rafts. It seemed like such a waste to just throw them away since they were perfectly good. I saw a little boy swimming hear this bulkhead area near the beach and said we should give him one of the rafts. So I swam the little raft over to him and he was so grateful and excited for the raft. That itself was enough to make us all smile for the rest of the day. Then 10 minutes later, we see him swimming up to the boat and he had gotten me a beautiful purple sea urchin shell as a thank you. That is just one of the may reasons why Croatians are some of the friendliest and most hospitable people we have met so far on our trip. They always seem to go the extra mile and always with a smile. That definitely made my day.

5. Last but definitely not least was the company. It is always a huge risk when you hang out with random people you do not know, but to spend 4 days with complete strangers? at sea? We would typically call people like that crazy!! It is actually a huge leap of faith in many ways. Luckily, we all got along splendidly and had heaps of fun as they say. Everybody was incredibly interesting, laid back, and so generous in giving us tips, offering up information and contacts when we get to Australia and New Zealand. We honestly could not have asked for a better crew.

 

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Last Updated ( Wednesday, 20 June 2007 )
 
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Friday, June 14
Written by: Brian

Current location: Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik: Seen from the City Walls (a short story)

The trudge up the fifty plus stairs, with sweat dripping down your face and soaking wet T-shirt, is forgotten once the panoramic view of the city and and cool salty sea breeze hits you as you crest the last stair. Hundreds of houses and buildings with multi-orange colored roofs dot the horizon as the view of the turquoise blue Adriatic Sea can be seen in the distance.

The city has been rebuilt numerous times since it was founded in the 7th century by the Romans under the name of Ragusa then changed to Dubrovnik (meaning Holm Oak) in the 12th century. The earthquake of 1667 was the most tragic destruction, killing over 5000 people and destroying all but two buildings that currently remain today.  Most recently though in 1991 and 1992 the city was bombarded with over 2000 shells in the Yugoslavian War. When the smoked cleared from the war, over 68% of the buildings were destroyed.  Walking around the walls it is difficult to see or even imagine the terrible destruction that the city once endured as today everything has been beautifully rebuilt according to original architecture and with original material. 

The number one tourist draw to Dubrovnik is the old town which can be seen best from the city walls where the town spans less then a half mile from end to end.  The orange tiled roofs that have been rebuilt after two out of three were destroyed in the Yugoslavian war, can be seen across the town.  Each roof top terrace is unique with plants, flowers and colorful laundry that is strung from house to house drying in the dry heat of the day. Along the walk around the walls that were built in the 13th to 16th century you notice the second oldest Synagogue in Europe, four church spires, two basilicas and the ice cool turquoise blue Adriatic Sea can be seen and enjoyed by all.  The walls were built in the 13th to 16th century to protect the city (obviously) from the onslaught of Barbarians.  At that time the walls were the finest in the world. 

The history of the city can be seen while walking the walls. The second oldest pharmacy built in the 1300´s is still in use today.  Dubrovnik was once a thriving Republic and one of the most prosperous and important trading centers in the Mediterranean. The Onofrio water fountain, one of the most famous landmarks, built in 1438 as a water supply system involved bringing water from over six miles away. There are 16 stone carved masks on the fountain with cold water gushing from their mouths into a drainage pool and you can quench your thirst once you have finished your tour. 

The old harbor, that was built for fortification and defense, has been rebuilt to accommodate todays yachts and cruise boat traffic. The enormous cruise boats come in daily to the city and deposit thousands of tourists into the walled city, that has one street, each jockeying for position as they walk up and down looking for a bargain at the numerous souvenir stores.

 The highlight of the walk around the wall is the tower in the Northeast corner that rises twenty meters above the city and gives an extremely beautiful overhead perspective of the city layout with the sparkling, inviting sea in the background, which is needed after a 2 hour tour of the walls.

Walking down to the main street, Placa, one may ponder the story of this once glorious Republic. The city Dubrovnik, the star sea port of Mediterranean, the prosperous city that fell in 1809 to Napoleon and is still struggling to regain the prosperity it once had.  A city that is once again rebuilding after a devastating war when all that remained was the view from the city walls.

 

 

 

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Last Updated ( Wednesday, 20 June 2007 )
 
Croatia - Part 2
Date: June 13th
Written by: Susan

Current location: Dubrovnik, Croatia - headed to either Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzogovina or sailing around the Croatian Islands tomorrow.

Croatia - Our experience

After a long train ride from Budapest where we met two really nice Brits, we arrived in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. It's a beautiful town with wonderful parks, a bit of a cosmopolitan feel and more shoes stores than Imelda Marcos could dream of. Seriously, if you can't find shoes in this town, you deserve to have aching feet. I didn't find any shoes, therefore I have aching feet. We spent 2 days in Zagreb wandering around and eating fresh strawberries.

On our second night, we were hanging out at the hostel we were staying at and met a strapping young lad by the name of Jason. Actually, he's our age but has the spirit of a strapping young lad. We were talking to a nice woman from Melbourne, Australia when Jason asked if he could join us while wielding a sharp knife and a block of cheese. We definitely weren't going to say no to someone wielding a sharp knife and secretly we were hoping he might share his cheese. Which he did offer up, the cheese not the knife. That was our first encounter with Jason.

The next day we took the overnight train from Zagreb to Split - the town everybody goes to in order to get to the Croatian islands. The overnight train was great fun, really for the novelty of being on an overnight train not necessarily because you get a good night of sleep. The train continually stops and goes during the night which means you are rolling back and forth all night long. There is something to be said though about waking up at 5am and watching the sunrise over rolling, foggy hills as the train whizs past small towns just beginning to wake up. These are the moments that makes traveling so special.

Getting off the train we were bombarded by people who were offering up private accommodations. That's how you find places to stay here in Croatia. People convert their homes into private rooms. Some with their own bathrooms and others with shared facilities. All the guide books tell us that there are going to be all these old ladies with signs that say "SOBE" on them which means they have rooms to rent. It was a bit overwhelming as we were accosted getting off the train looking for all these old ladies but instead found old men surrounding us. Suddenly, we hear the sweet voice of familiarity. Susan! Brian! We turn towards the voice and are just grateful for a distraction from all of the people trying to sell us rooms. There's Jason. We walk towards him and are excited just to actually "know" somebody in a foreign town. Although we did meet him less than 24 hours ago. When you are traveling, people become buddies after 5 minutes and act like life long friends after 15 minutes.

We ended up getting a room together in Diocletian's Palace. It's not really a palace although it sounds very exotic and nice just writing about it. Diocleatian was actually a Roman Emperor who had this fortress built for him as his retirement palace. It really is more a maze of small alleyways with homes, businesses and Roman ruins encompassed by a huge rock wall around its perimeter. The perfect place to spend one night. What made it even more perfect was that we found this bar with cheap beer, free wi-fi and those addictively comfortable lounge chairs that they sell at Ikea. We spent 5 hours there. That was pretty much our whole experience in Split. Brian and I were headed to the island of Hvar the next day and Jason was going to spend one more night in Split  (I tell you, those Ikea chairs are really addictive) and then decide where he was headed next.

Parting ways the next day was a bit sad. I mean now we've known Jason for 48 hours which means he's practically our brother by this point. Off we headed to take a 1 hour catamaran ride to the island of Hvar. Hvar is just one of over a thousand islands here in Croatia. It's one of the nicest, largest, and attracts quite the ritzy jet-setting crowd. We found a room at this lady's house which was absolutely perfect. $40 a night and had a fantastic view of the Adriatic Sea as well as our own bathroom (definitely a nice amenity). Plus it was only a 10 minute walk to town. We'd heard about people diving around the islands and were interested in finding out about getting certified for diving. So off we went one afternoon to hunt down the dive shop. As we were headed to the dive shop, all of a sudden we hear this voice "I figured I would run into you guys sooner or later". Jason reappears in all his backpacker glory. Big backpack with his towel hanging out the back, plastic grocery bag with food hooked onto one side, bandana and sunglasses on, leaning casually against the wall taking a break from the hot sun. There was nothing left to do but to have lunch with him. Funny enough, he too was headed to the same dive shop to find out more about diving.

We spent the next few days hanging out. The most fun day we had was when we all rented a boat. Nothing to get jealous about. Not yet anyways. It was only a 5 horsepower boat. But hey, it runs and sure beats rowing to an island. We took the boat to these uninhabited islands off the coast of Hvar Island called the Pakleni Islands. Needless to say, it was a glorious day. Nothing can beat finding our own cove, anchoring our little boat and jumping into the aqua blue warm Adriatic Sea. The simplicity and beauty of it all was just breathtaking. It almost seemed surreal. We splashed around like little kids, climbed up onto the rocks of the islands, Brian hunted for fossils and we laid out on the warm white slabs of rock. Nobody around except for us. It's hard to believe that we can actually still find places like this that exist. Jason likened that laying on the rocks felt like being layered between two warm blankets as the sun baked down on us. Life was good.

After a few days of hanging out in Hvar it was time to move on in our journey. Jason was headed somewhere north. Yet to be determined at the time, but as of today he is heading to Munich. We headed to Dubrovnik. I'm pretty confident our paths will cross again. I guess I forgot to mention that Jason is from LA or NYC depending on his mood, but currently lives in LA and is traveling around Europe for a few months.

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Last Updated ( Wednesday, 20 June 2007 )
 
Croatia
Tuesday, June 12
Written by: Susan
Current Location: Dubrovnik, Croatia

Doberdon,
We've been in Croatia a little over a week now and we love it. I know it's starting to sound redundant that we love every place that we visit, but really Croatia is definitely on our top 5 must see places. I thought I would divide this blog into a few sections based on questions we've been getting.

Are you tired of traveling yet? How's it going after 2 months on the road?

So to answer the first question, no we are not tired of traveling yet. Actually not even a little bit. Sometimes we get tired of the actual travel days. Those usually start the night before. It takes us about a good hour to pack our backpacks because they can only be packed a certain way and there is a definite methodology in order to get everything in. We are definitely guilty of having way too many books on our trip. 

The next morning usually starts around 6am since we have to use public transportation to get to either the train station or the bus station. Then it's usually a 4-7 hour ride to wherever we are going next. When we get there we have to figure out where we are staying or try to find the place we booked ahead of time and take public transportation there. We have lived on public transportation and are so appreciative of all the cities who have it. It's a great travel day if it's not raining and the trams/subways aren't crowded. It's not such a nice day when it's raining and we are strapped with our 40 pound packs trying to cram onto a crowded subway while trying not to slam into different people with our packs and avoid glares and looks of annoyances. So really, things are great and we are loving every minute of our trip.

We love getting up every morning and exploring a new area. I love going to all the local markets and looking at their fresh produce, cheese, meats, fish, etc. Brian loves learning about the history of a place and just wandering around. We love being nomadic and knowing that we can move whenever we want and decide where to go next based on our desires. Although we are running short of time here in Eastern Europe as we have to be in Turkey by the end of June for 2 weeks in order to get our visas for the Congo. The people we've met on the road, locals and travelers, have been nothing short of friendly and hospitable.

We don't really miss anything so far from the states except, obviously, our friends and family. We have though, been in very westernized places for the most part. It might change once we hit Africa. Who knows though, we've seen a Benetton, McDonald's and Lush store in every city and town (even little, itty, bitty towns) we've been to.

Last but not least, Brian and I still like each other. :)

Croatia - History

Traveling is good for many reasons. It gives us a sense of humility, humbles us in ways that maybe sometimes we don't even like to admit, and gives us the opportunity to see with our very own eyes the unfolding of a county's history. Since history is not my forte, I didn't know a lot about Croatia or the former Yugoslavia until we came to this region. The history is incredibly complicated with all the different ethnic groups wanting increasingly more autonomy. I've been trying to sum it up for the last 20 minutes and realized it can't be done. So I've included a link for anybody interested in finding out more on the history of the Balkan Region.

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Last Updated ( Wednesday, 20 June 2007 )
 
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